Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, the designer behind the Paris-based fashion label LGN, was ecstatic when he received the call inviting him to create the costumes for the Paralympics’ opening ceremony in Paris.
The event took place on Wednesday, featuring a grand procession down the Champs-Élysées that concluded at the Place de la Concorde.
“I poured my heart into this project,” said Nouchi, 36, “because it was the Paralympics, and it resonated with me personally. At LGN, I focus heavily on inclusivity—embracing plus sizes, age diversity, and varied body types on the runway during fashion week.”
Known for his elegantly simple men’s wear with a contemporary edge, Nouchi appeared on a video call wearing a thick mustache, a plain black T-shirt, and a cigarette in hand, grinning as he shared his experience.
Initially, the Paralympics project didn’t evoke a strong sense of patriotism in him. Although he grew up in Paris, his training in Belgium and early career in Italy had profoundly shaped his identity as a designer.
However, as he embarked on the task of designing hundreds of garments for performers with disabilities, a deep sense of pride in his homeland began to emerge.
“Working on this project made me increasingly patriotic,” Nouchi explained. “The more I engaged in rehearsals and fittings, the prouder I felt. It’s not always easy for the French to feel proud of being French.”
The assignment was clear but daunting: create around 700 garments for performers with disabilities for the opening ceremony. From the start, Nouchi was determined not to design conventional costumes.
Instead, he envisioned clothing that would complement the show without overshadowing the performers or the event. His designs aimed to capture an urban, Parisian vibe while ensuring comfort.
To achieve this, he had to rethink his usual runway approach, considering how the performers would move on stage and the sound of the fabric.
“The difference between a garment and a costume is functionality,” he said. He chose jersey fabric for the outfits, ensuring they were machine washable, and added flair with embroidery, rhinestones, and feathers.
Nouchi’s designs for the ceremony ranged from casual to formal, all maintaining the chic, minimalist style characteristic of LGN. The collection included a red tracksuit with shoulder cutouts accented by white and black lines, a glossy blue robe with pleats, a shimmering oversized silver blazer, a deep V-neck tunic, and a denim shirt with red splatters.
The color palette was a deconstructed interpretation of the French flag—red, white, and blue. “Representing our flag in France isn’t the same as in the U.S.,” he noted. “Displaying the French flag can sometimes carry negative connotations.”
However, Nouchi was pleased with how the Olympic and Paralympic projects allowed the French to reclaim their flag’s symbolism. “Using those colors at Place de la Concorde, the site of the revolution, was meaningful,” he said.
When conceptualizing the designs, Nouchi questioned whether his references were appropriate, understanding that in fashion, “nothing is innocent.”
The ceremony, with its emphasis on inclusivity and diverse body types, was a reflection of society. Designing for people with disabilities, Nouchi explained, required special considerations, though it was similar to designing for able-bodied individuals.
For instance, when designing for someone in a wheelchair, he avoided accentuating the shoulders, as it wasn’t flattering to the silhouette. Additionally, some performers preferred short sleeves to keep their skin in contact with the wheelchair for better performance.
One particularly touching moment for Nouchi was when a dancer, who uses a wheelchair, tried on a suit he had designed and was moved to tears. “You have no idea what this means to me,” she told him, expressing her lifelong desire to wear a suit tailored to her body.
For Nouchi, working on the Paralympics’ opening ceremony was a liberating experience.
“I was creating outfits to enhance the beauty of movement,” he said. “None of this is for sale afterward. It’s not about me; I’m just making the clothes.
This project allowed me to let go creatively and experiment with new ideas.”
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